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  #11  
Old 10-18-2020, 07:16 PM
Tango Tango is offline
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Thank you guys, today I have really learnt a lot. I hope this plant lives!
It's great to have such an amount of good feedback!
Best,
Tango.
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  #12  
Old 10-18-2020, 07:38 PM
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Thank you guys, today I have really learnt a lot. I hope this plant lives!
It's great to have such an amount of good feedback!
Best,
Tango.
You're most welcome Tango. The rule-of-thumb recommendation from ES and Roberta are very good.

There is that rule of thumb for bifoliates ...... and growers need to watch and see if that particular information and knowledge can be used effectively to avoid issues with their loddigesii when repotting etc.

It all likely depends on growing conditions, environment etc. Following the rule-of-thumb is recommended for growers. I will mention that any orchid I receive by post - uni or bi foliate gets repotted and its roots disturbed. Very much disturbed. And I don't get issues with my bifoliates. I haven't grown a loddigesii though! So wouldn't be surprised if some orchids are very sensitive to roots being disturbed. Some plants (not orchids) really do take a dive in health ..... maybe unrecoverable dive when their roots become detached from the media.
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Old 10-18-2020, 07:51 PM
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A note with regard to bifoliates and potting... species tend to have just one rooting period, and if that isn't observed, trouble. There are plenty of Catt-group hybrids that have two leaves per growth (mostly) and so you think they're "bifoliate", that actually have unifoliate as well as bifoliate ones in their background - or even if mostly bifoliate, may include species with different "calendars". Those hybrids may well have more than one rooting time, due to different patterns of the various ancestors. Those are likely to much less picky - and give the impression that it isn't all that important. If you apply the observations from what you can get away with on hybrids to Catt species, you're likely to be in for a very unpleasant surprise.

Species aren't necessarily any harder to grow than hybrids, though that may be their reputation. In fact, they may be easier because their natural requirements are a lot easier to determine. If you can give them what they require, easy. If not, compost. The range of deviation from the ideal that they tolerate may be narrower - often, hybrids are developed specifically to permit them to grow successfully under a broader range of conditions.
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  #14  
Old 11-03-2020, 01:18 AM
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If you apply the observations from what you can get away with on hybrids to Catt species, you're likely to be in for a very unpleasant surprise.
It's definitely not impossible to be unpleasantly surprised. Although, I have yet to be unpleasantly surprised by a particular catt species. But, we're all students of orchid growing and always continuing to learn. So wouldn't be surprised about things we haven't yet seen or encountered.

I have various catt species that I can just unpot and repot at any time, and nothing bad will happen to them. This definitely isn't a statement for running 'against the grain' about the recommendations made from a lot of highly experienced growers out there ----- both now and in the past. I believe there will be at least some orchids that are ultra sensitive ----- but those ones I'm thinking about are not the 'regular' or average kinds of catts. I'm thinking along the lines of some ultra exotic kinds. Not loddigesii though.
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Old 11-03-2020, 01:53 AM
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Another thought with regard to C. loddigesii... really closely related to C. harrisoniana (scholars even argue as to whether they are even separate species) I have a plant labeled C. harrisoniana alba that I suspect is either loddigesii or a natural hybrid with harrisoniana. The sidelobes of the lip enclose the column, more like loddogesii (where my C. harrisoniana with a more recent and likely ID, has the column more exposed) Anyhow, that C. "harrisoniana alba" often blooms twice a year, and also roots twice a year. So where the ranges of the species intersect, natural hybrids are very likely since they are so closely related. If you have one of those, it's going to be more forgiving of potting out of season because the next rooting likely may occur within a few months.
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Old 11-03-2020, 02:31 AM
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Hi, thank you for sharing your thoughts about this species.
The new roots started to collapse again... And I discovered a black spot on the basis of the last growth... I guess it is crown rot. Well let's see what happens.
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  #17  
Old 11-03-2020, 02:40 AM
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Hi, thank you for sharing your thoughts about this species.
The new roots started to collapse again... And I discovered a black spot on the basis of the last growth... I guess it is crown rot. Well let's see what happens.
Tango ----- what's happening to the new roots? Starting to 'collapse'? Maintain some nice warm temperature, and provide some nice gentle air-flow with a combination of natural or fan gentle breeze and airy growing media and very good drainage pot.

If there is crown rot ..... then spray some orchid-safe copper solution (recommended dosage), then dry that region quickly afterwards.


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  #18  
Old 11-03-2020, 03:24 AM
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Do you mean a new, developing growth is turning black?
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  #19  
Old 11-03-2020, 11:22 AM
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Yes. The new roots suddenly started to look wrinkled and soft. The new growth turned black on the basis, along the invisible side. I had to cut it... I was afraid that it would spread... There was a black thread in the centre of the rhizome... I cut pieces with the scissor until it was clean, then disinfected everything with dilluted peroxide... Let's see what happens, but I'm afraid it's going to be a long agony.
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Old 11-03-2020, 12:34 PM
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Yes. The new roots suddenly started to look wrinkled and soft. The new growth turned black on the basis, along the invisible side.
What you describe is exactly what happens to Cattleya roots and shoots when they don't get enough water when making a new growth. You may not have a rot problem.
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