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Go Back   Orchid Board - Most Complete Orchid Forum on the web ! > ORCHID ALLIANCES > Catasetum and Stanhopea Alliance
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  #1  
Unread 11-22-2012, 04:49 PM
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Default Stanhopea and Related Genera INDOORS

Hello everyone!

I just got my first online orchid package from Al's Orchid Greenhouse that consisted of four orchids: Stan. tricornis and wardii, Cory. vasquezii, and Coryhopea Red Martian.
Most people say that these orchids are only suitable for the greenhouse but I say, screw it! I'm growing them indoors! My setup consists of a humidifier with a fan next to it to blow the mist. They hang on a tall clothing rack as of now. I will be updating the project weekly. Pictures are on my thread called 'First Online Orchid Arrival'. Feedback and info is always appreciated!

-Kevinator
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  #2  
Unread 11-23-2012, 12:52 AM
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Good luck!
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  #3  
Unread 11-23-2012, 06:15 AM
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Well, if you consider Gongora as a Stanhopea relative.. I grow it indoor all year and it flowered this summer and now it's making a new sprout. The problem with stanhopea is the floral stem: it grows from the bottom, so you need to hang the plant. for the rest of the year, you can grow the plant resting on a shelf as a normal orchid.
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  #4  
Unread 11-26-2012, 09:49 PM
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Revolutionary project, eh ?
won't go ...

A 'tall clothing rack' usually stands in front of a wall, not in front of a window, right ? So, where does
the required / adequate lighting come from ?

You might draw some encouragement from an old thread titled "AmandaTom Stanhopea platyceras bud drop".

If your plants are seedlings, they are bound to per... - if they are adults, I wish you a load of good luck !!

Last edited by Manfred Busche; 11-26-2012 at 09:59 PM..
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  #5  
Unread 11-26-2012, 10:11 PM
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Hello there!

The chothing rack is right in front of a large south facing window (also an east window on the right side of the rack) and the plants are all quite big. The window itself is almost as big as the rack itself.

I almost forgot to mention the maintenence.
water: RO every two days
fertilizer: 5-30-10 orchid fertilizer at 1/2 strength

Update: Its been one week since I recieved the orders and the plants are fine.
Stan. tricornis: a little bit of spotting but overall ok. One more new growth.
Stan. wardii: no signs of deterioration. No spots. Leaves are now growing.
Cory. vasquezii: no signs of deterioration. Spotting has decreased and one bulb turned to mush. Still healthy. No growths.
Coryhopea Red Martian: no signs of deterioration. No spots. One growth is growing more than the other two. Bulbs still firm and green.
Gongora tricolor: no signs of deterioration. A little sunburn at the tips and edges of leaves from one week ago. Growths are taller now.
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Last edited by Kevinator; 11-26-2012 at 10:29 PM..
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  #6  
Unread 11-26-2012, 11:21 PM
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So far so good ...

Tall plants need large amounts fertiliser - but only when growing.
However, N-P-H = 5-30-10 is totally unadequate for plants which are growing leaf shoots - adequate fertiliser
for leaves would be high in 'N', not high in 'P' ...
1/2 strength, what's that ?

Plants of S. tricornis like 20 % more shade than S. wardii, if possible - and plants of Coryanthes REQUIRE (!)
30 % more light, and more warmth.

Last edited by Manfred Busche; 11-26-2012 at 11:53 PM..
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  #7  
Unread 11-27-2012, 01:13 AM
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Thanks for the info! I'm using a high phosphorus fertilizer because the orchids are in blooming season as of now. Active growth is not really seen but i did see a dried flower spike on my Stan. tricornis when it arrived (sad that it was dried but still hopeful that it might bloom again this year).

Sooooooo, the tricornis needs less light. Got that. I moved it to the shadiest area of the rack, however, this made me place the coryanthes in a less humid area. I hope its ok with that.
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  #8  
Unread 11-27-2012, 09:02 PM
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Hi Kevinator, my friend .

You was born on May 9, 1999 - is this true ?
I am asking because I was also born on the 9th(!) day of a month - though not in May ...

On Fertilisation :
---------------

(a) If any orchid plant is beginning to grow a leaf shoot, a good cultivator supports the plant by spraying
.... a 'N'-dominated fertiliser onto it's roots.

(b) If any orchid plant is beginning to grow a flower spike, the support would be a 'P'-dominated fertiliser.

(c) The above measures, (a) and (b), are only applied when one or more leaf shoots and flower spikes, respectively,
.... have indeed materialised.

(d) If any orchid plant is producing nothing - i.e. neither leaf shoot(s) nor flower spike ... do not give any fertiliser.

(e) 'Flowering Season' is a myth - orchids flower when they please ... - hence do not spray 'P'-dominated fertiliser
.... upon any orchids based on your wishful thinking animated by this myth ...

Returning to your project :
------------------------

I have already posted anything you need to know on 2 previous threads here on Orchid Board :
"Understanding Coryanthes", and "Stanhopea platyceras bud drop".

I suggest that you absorb that material during the coming week(s) ...

Best Regards to you,
Manfred.

Last edited by Manfred Busche; 11-27-2012 at 09:28 PM..
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  #9  
Unread 11-27-2012, 10:11 PM
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Hello Manfred!

I read your thread regarding the coryanthes last week when searching for care information. Quite impressive if I have to say so myself. I read the bud drop article yesterday as well. I'll be using the nitrogen fertilizer then!

Thanks!
Kevinator
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  #10  
Unread 12-02-2012, 11:40 PM
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Hi Kevinator.

How does your equipment, a (quote) "humidifier with a fan next to it to blow the mist" (unquote)
effect the construction elements of the 2 windows ?
Is there already moss growing on the window panes ? (just joking ...).

There is a glorious book (*), describing in Chapter 15 how a french orchid maniac would grow his beloved plants
inside a nondescript suburban house -the entire building converted into a multi-level greenhouse- with fungus
growing on the ceilings ...

Cheers, Manfred.

(*) Eric Hansen 2000, Orchid Fever, ISBN o-679-45141-2

Last edited by Manfred Busche; 12-03-2012 at 12:17 AM..
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