Coryanthes speciosa - Orchid Board

Shadow · #1 11-01-2006, 07:03 AM

I've got it two days ago from ecuagenera farm. It has 4 bulbs and there were many starts of rot. All leaves were half-dry. The dry areas had brownish-grey colour.

I cut out the rotted places and covered those places with fungicide. Then I potted it in the clear plastic pot. The mix is bark, charcoal, coconut fiber and sphagnum moss. As far as I know the medium should be always damp.

Does somebody grow this specie? All growing tips and hints will be highly appreciated.

P.S I can post photos of this poor thing, if it is necessary.

cb977 · #2 11-01-2006, 01:09 PM

Info:

http://www.orchidculture.com/COD/FREE/FS197.html

http://www.orchidsonline.com.au/species316.html

http://www.orchidspecies.com/coryspeciosa.htm

Shadow · #3 11-02-2006, 03:06 AM

Thanks for the links. I checked orchid culture and Jay sites already. But I thought somebody here grows it personally.

Tony · #4 11-02-2006, 04:06 PM

It may be a good idea to keep it drier than normal until you get the rot under control.

Shadow · #5 11-02-2006, 05:34 PM

I'm trying to keep water away from the bulbs, but I do water it. This plant was seriously underwatered. It had been with bare roots for more than a month and no one watered it during that period. All leaves were half dry. And new grow start dried out too. I will post pictures tomorrow.

Mahon · #6 11-03-2006, 07:38 PM

I once grew two forms of Coryanthes speciosa... I now only grow Coryanthes macrantha var. aurea and Coryanthes vaquezii...

Anyways, right now, the Coryanthes are sending out shoots, new roots, and possibly spikes... you want to still keep a little water on it, before it goes dormant in winter... I would watch those brown sheaths at the base of the bulbs so that water doesn't accumulate, but it's not a big concern. Those leaves look as if they are browning for winter dormancy... no big deal on them.

I would suggest planting your Coryanthes speciosa in Spagnum moss in a basket, so the spikes, growths, and roots can escape out... but when you pot it up, make sure to carefully watch it for a week or so, as it is going from one extreme enviroment to another to yours... the ride would be very stressful... good luck on it, the plant overall looks good...

-Pat

Shadow · #7 11-03-2006, 08:35 PM

So these are the photos of the plant. I took them the same day it came.

Shadow · #8 11-05-2006, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mahon

you want to still keep a little water on it, before it goes dormant in winter... I would watch those brown sheaths at the base of the bulbs so that water doesn't accumulate, but it's not a big concern. Those leaves look as if they are browning for winter dormancy... no big deal on them.

-Pat

It is just from Ecuador and it is spring there. Seems to me it is waking up.

I took off those sheaths when I were cutting out the rotted spots .

Ross · #9 11-05-2006, 12:32 PM

While I don't grow this genera, there is a principle I hope you understand. Just because it is spring in southern lattitudes doesn't mean your plant will respond at exact same rate or time table. I agree with Mahon, this plant looks fine. I would expect the leaves to finish dieing off and new roots/shoots to develop just as he says (the first dormancy may be a bit short depending on how you treat the plant - for instance my deciduous dendrobiums are starting into dormancy now. In southeast asia where they are native, they would just be entering the rainy season and coming out of dormancy) The first year I grew D. bigibum I mistakenly didn't let it go into dormancy. After checking into why it didn't bloom, I now with hold ALL water from end of October until buds are well developed on bare canes and new shoots have started (about April).