Clowesia rosea: so many questions!

[theorchidapartment]

I just received my first Catasetum-alliance orchid, a Clowesia rosea from Andy's!



It was supposed to come in a 4" basket, which is also what the label says, but I was planning to repot anyway, so that's neither here nor there.

I have a LOT of questions about growing this in my apartment. I grow all my orchids on a shelving unit under lights with 12-hour days, regardless of season. Winters on the shelf are quite warm on account of heat I have no control over; however, it is cooler by the windows. Spring and fall are the cool seasons, which usually don't go below the mid-sixties. Summer is hot and humid, since I'm stingy with my AC.

So my first question is: Should I keep this guy dormant until its natural growing season? Would it be better to hang it near a north-facing window (my only option) for now instead of on my bright, warm growing shelf?

I watched some of Stephen's YouTube videos (hello! ) and am intrigued by PET method, but has anyone found this to be too much moisture in an indoor environment that isn't quite as hot and dry as summer in Austin?

There is no way I will be able to meet its water needs in active growth if it stays mounted; just trying to decide how best to pot. I water daily. Some of my thirstier orchids (Maxillaria) are in straight sphagnum in baskets but most potted ones are in Orchiata and perlite.

Another question: Is there any way of knowing whether this is due to bloom between now and its spring awakening?

Thanks in advance! I'm really excited about this one.

[Roberta]

First, I think under your conditions you will want to grow this potted. As for blooming... it is very likely that it may bloom while it is still dormant. I am eagerly watching my Cl. Rebecca Northen (3/4 Cl. rosea), it usually blooms some time in February so spikes could be starting any time. New growth just barely starts while in bloom but time to start watering is a month or two after that, don't start too soon. So I'd suggest pot it up now. But no water. (These are neat because they do bloom while still "asleep", I wonder if they are dreaming of pollination. )

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by theorchidapartment

I just received my first Catasetum-alliance orchid, a Clowesia rosea from Andy's!



It was supposed to come in a 4" basket, which is also what the label says, but I was planning to repot anyway, so that's neither here nor there.

I have a LOT of questions about growing this in my apartment. I grow all my orchids on a shelving unit under lights with 12-hour days, regardless of season. Winters on the shelf are quite warm on account of heat I have no control over; however, it is cooler by the windows. Spring and fall are the cool seasons, which usually don't go below the mid-sixties. Summer is hot and humid, since I'm stingy with my AC.

So my first question is: Should I keep this guy dormant until its natural growing season? Would it be better to hang it near a north-facing window (my only option) for now instead of on my bright, warm growing shelf?

I watched some of Stephen's YouTube videos (hello! ) and am intrigued by PET method, but has anyone found this to be too much moisture in an indoor environment that isn't quite as hot and dry as summer in Austin?

There is no way I will be able to meet its water needs in active growth if it stays mounted; just trying to decide how best to pot. I water daily. Some of my thirstier orchids (Maxillaria) are in straight sphagnum in baskets but most potted ones are in Orchiata and perlite.

Another question: Is there any way of knowing whether this is due to bloom between now and its spring awakening?

Thanks in advance! I'm really excited about this one.

I would get this one under the lights! That way it'll already be acclimated when the new growth starts.

This plant might also be big enough for a bloom, but maybe not. I bet it blooms for sure next year though. Its should start blooming between now and early March.

PET should work fine under lights (Bernie Butts is a incredibly prolific grower/breeder who has all his plants year round in a basement in Toronto), but spag works very well for these guys. Pot in whatever works best for your conditions!

Out of curiosity, why don't you alter the day length under the lights?

[theorchidapartment]

Originally Posted by isurus79

Out of curiosity, why don't you alter the day length under the lights?

It never occurred to me to! I think I assumed that day length doesn't vary that much in the tropics...? I haven't really seen much information on the topic but am curious to know more.

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by theorchidapartment

It never occurred to me to! I think I assumed that day length doesn't vary that much in the tropics...? I haven't really seen much information on the topic but am curious to know more.

Ah, I see! Yes, day length can have a major effect on many of the orchids we grow! I get my lights down to 10 hours per day this time of year and up to 14 hours per day in 6 months from now. I'll adjust my timer by one hour on the first of the month to make that happen, with four months each year where I don't change the day length.

[theorchidapartment]

Intriguing! At this point, would you recommend just keeping it where I have it for now, extend the days as we approach the solstice, and then reduce? Or just knock it down to 10 abruptly now?

As can be expected, unmounting raised more questions. I assumed that the largest psuedobulb was the newest, but it seems that the mid-sized one has the freshest bracts. (Looking at the photo now, I guess that's quite obvious!)

How much room should I leave to accommodate the new growth when choosing a pot? Should I center the whole thing or put older growths closer to the edge? How many of these old papery roots should I leave attached? Do these serve a purpose other than anchoring the plant? They mostly seem rather dead...

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by theorchidapartment

Intriguing! At this point, would you recommend just keeping it where I have it for now, extend the days as we approach the solstice, and then reduce? Or just knock it down to 10 abruptly now?

Now, that's an interesting question! Honestly, I don't know that any particular approach would be harmful. I think I'd take it down to 10 hours right now and start adding hours back on March 1st.

Originally Posted by theorchidapartment

How much room should I leave to accommodate the new growth when choosing a pot? Should I center the whole thing or put older growths closer to the edge? How many of these old papery roots should I leave attached? Do these serve a purpose other than anchoring the plant? They mostly seem rather dead...

I'd leave room for two sequential growths. However, the tricky part with these guys is they have pendent spikes, so you'll want the plant to be slightly elevated above the pot rim to allow that spike enough time for lateral growth and then down the side of the pot. If the plant is sunk down below the pot rim, the spike will hit side of the pot and go down, only to die. Cutting a plastic pot to free the spike can remedy that situation and I've already done it once this winter. Ultimately, this group can be repotted every year without setting the plant back, so planning for multiple years of growth to avoid root disturbance isn't an important factor.

[katsucats]

Originally Posted by isurus79

PET should work fine under lights

I'm sorry for hijacking this thread a bit. I saw your YouTube videos. May I ask why you use Epiweb as a substrate to, I assume, wick water up to the fir bark, as opposed to leca or lava rock? It seems to me that Epiweb is rather expensive.

Also, I wonder if Epiweb is just rubberized hair used for upholstery fillings.
1″ x 24″ wide Rubberized Curled – Albany Foam and Supply Inc

[isurus79]

Originally Posted by katsucats

I'm sorry for hijacking this thread a bit. I saw your YouTube videos. May I ask why you use Epiweb as a substrate to, I assume, wick water up to the fir bark, as opposed to leca or lava rock? It seems to me that Epiweb is rather expensive.

Honestly, it's what I have to work with! No other reason than that. I got a GIANT box from Ray for super cheap many years ago and it's my go-to media for this part of the process. However, you can use rocks, leca, lava, etc.

Originally Posted by katsucats

Also, I wonder if Epiweb is just rubberized hair used for upholstery fillings.
1″ x 24″ wide Rubberized Curled – Albany Foam and Supply Inc

I can't answer this with any certainty, but Epiweb is made of recycled plastic and I'm not sure what the "rubberized" material is made from (rubber?).

[theorchidapartment]

Me again! Back with the classic question, should I start watering yet?







New growth started in late February.