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  #41  
Old 10-18-2020, 12:51 PM
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Roberta Roberta is offline
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Shoulda left the leaves... they'd tell you when they were really ready to go dormant. At this point, I'd water lightly through November, slowly reducing the interval - it's pretty close to time when it would drop leaves naturally. By the beginning of December you can stop watering, put it where you will mostly not look at it. New roots may start ahead of the new growth, being in a clear pot you'll be able to see them. Actually, once it's dormant, you can repot pretty much any time, just don't water until you have nice long new roots. (Once dormant, it pretty much doesn't care what you do as long as you don't water. You'll want to get it settled into its new home before the new roots take off)
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  #42  
Old 10-18-2020, 01:35 PM
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I would say this time of year and losing all the leaves, it would probably be best to consider it dormant. Only water if the bulb shrivels badly.
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  #43  
Old 10-18-2020, 02:31 PM
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Yes, Roberta, but they were broken off and dried up and fell off. I only finished removing that last one, and it was ready to drop.

---------- Post added at 01:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 PM ----------

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Originally Posted by mook1178 View Post
I would say this time of year and losing all the leaves, it would probably be best to consider it dormant. Only water if the bulb shrivels badly.
What about that tiny baby? Just toast?
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  #44  
Old 10-18-2020, 02:45 PM
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The baby? Is it completely off? I'd just leave it in the pot and see what happens. It could root and grow come spring.

As far as the broken off ones are concerned... if there was any connection, I'm inclined to leave. If completely broken, sure remove. At this time of year, really not a problem. I'd still keep damp for another month or so (since before the leaves were broken they were still going) then stop watering... it's OK to push dormancy a bit (sometimes they don't give up and you have to push them anyway) But at this time of year, definitely not fragile or picky. Sometimes on these, they'll bloom when leaves are still alive but ratty, and it's fine to whack the leaves so they look better.
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  #45  
Old 10-18-2020, 02:52 PM
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Yeah, this literally were hanging by a thread and fell off as they dried. Except for the one that kept hanging by a thread, and I couldn't bear to look at it anymore.

I'll just treat the little baby like the big one, and we'll see what happens!

---------- Post added at 01:51 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:50 PM ----------

When do these guys bloom anyway? Next spring?

---------- Post added at 01:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:51 PM ----------

Or they have to get a certain size?
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  #46  
Old 10-18-2020, 02:54 PM
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Oof yeah, that guy arrived in pretty poor condition. Good news is that it has a pretty good bulb, so it should recover 150% next year.

I have also had subpar experiences with Orchids Amore.
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  #47  
Old 10-18-2020, 03:12 PM
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Bloom time on the Catasetinae varies... sometimes when they get big enough they may even do it more than once during the season (I had a couple that did it this year) My Ctsm. fimbriatum is in bloom right now. So that's when it blooms, I guess... (It'll be losing leaves soon, the ones it has are starting to look ratty) Some of these can bloom on relatively small plants, they bloom better when they get bigger. (Something really encouraged mine this year, bigger and better than they have ever been) When they're growing, they're really hungry. I was a bit more organized this spring and got the time release on them early and maybe that helped. If you're doing semi-hydro, just give them twice the fertilizer strength that you do everything else... and perhaps more often. And keep them wetter. When they're growing in late spring into summer, you can almost watch them grow... pace more like a tomato than an orchid.

Clowesias seem to bloom first... in fact Cl. Rebecca Northen blooms on bare pseudobulbs - when it's still dormant, in around February (and then starts growing a couple of months later). Then Catasetums are all over the map - some bloom while doing their spring growth - I have a Ctsm. expansum that does that... and another one that only just bloomed. Mormodes tend to be late-season. Then, the hybrids mix and match some more. Some may bloom AFTER they go dormant, in late fall.
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  #48  
Old 10-18-2020, 03:29 PM
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I'd leave it exactly as it is in the last photo. Put it with your other orchids and let it dry out completely. Once it's dry you can repot it into whatever. Don't water not even one little bit. In spring it will push a new growth and the roots will grow down into the medium. When they hit the bottom start watering.
The baby might sprout a new growth in spring too. Wouldn't be surprised. $0.02
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  #49  
Old 10-18-2020, 03:44 PM
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The tiny little thing might have been the entire plant last winter. The large pseudobulb grew this year. It looks like it is very far into going dormant for the season. I suspect the leaves were about to drop when it was packaged and sent.

I would not water it until next spring. Put it outside in a breezy area so it dries up faster. Store it dry and repot next spring. Look at isurus' videos for more help.
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  #50  
Old 10-18-2020, 05:13 PM
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Ouch, off to a rough start! Luckily you’ll never even notice the damage this time next year!
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