New growth on FDK After Dark?

[mofms1]

I noticed that my FDK After Dark (I think it belongs in this group) dropped its flowers. It only had two. I’ve only had it since the beginning of Nov, and it didn’t flower for very long. The flowers were in bud, but not bloomed when I got it. I noticed that it has what I think is new growth, and I was wondering if I should repot it now. If I do repot it, should I put it in s/h? This is my favorite orchid, I love how it looks, even without the flowers or leaves, and don’t want to do anything to kill it.

[DirtyCoconuts]

Conventional wisdom is to completely leave it alone until the new roots are 3-4” long. Then resume normal feed and water.

I too love that plant! Healthy looking exemplar

[Roberta]

It doesn't want water until the roots are 3-4 inches (and the leaves have started to spread out so there isn't a "pocket" to collect water) Repotting is best done before that happens, though...before the new roots get going. So it could be repotted now, then set it aside and ignore it until those new roots are well established and the new growth is leafed out. (Since one can't see how long the roots are unless it's in a clear pot and maybe not even then, I am guided by the leaves, and also look for the second flush of roots to get going... by that time the first batch will be well on its way. (The second batch of roots is typically a month or 6 weeks after the first)

[fishmom]

Take Roberta's good advice. I have two After Dark plants, one in S/H and one in a bark mix medium, and both are healthy and thriving. I would say you should use whatever method you like best. A bonus about using S/H with catasetinae is that the new roots will all be well adapted to the medium you choose if you repot now. You can orient the plant in the new pot so that the growth will be close to upright and have plenty of room. Be sure to leave the old roots to anchor the plant firmly and give the new roots a good base to grow from.

[katrina]

Don't be too quick to repot just yet...that could be another spike. Too soon to tell for sure but it's not uncommon for additional spikes to pop so I would wait to see what that turns out to be.

[DirtyCoconuts]

Originally Posted by fishmom

Take Roberta's good advice. I have two After Dark plants, one in S/H and one in a bark mix medium, and both are healthy and thriving. I would say you should use whatever method you like best. A bonus about using S/H with catasetinae is that the new roots will all be well adapted to the medium you choose if you repot now. You can orient the plant in the new pot so that the growth will be close to upright and have plenty of room. Be sure to leave the old roots to anchor the plant firmly and give the new roots a good base to grow from.

This is a slight derail but how do you rest a plant that is in S/H? Do you still flush just not fertilize? Or do you let it dry out?

[Subrosa]

Just because the roots get 3"-4" long doesn't necessarily mean you have to start watering. You definitely shouldn't water intil that point, but there's some thought that Catasetum get "lazy" about growing roots once they find moisture. I wait until the previous year's pseudobulb shows signs of shriveling before I start watering.

[mofms1]

Originally Posted by DirtyCoconuts

Conventional wisdom is to completely leave it alone until the new roots are 3-4” long. Then resume normal feed and water.

I too love that plant! Healthy looking exemplar

Thanks! Wish I could take credit for how it looks, but I haven't had it long enough. Will the new roots come out from the top, like air roots on a phal? I'm worried I won't even see the new roots and will miss my chance to repot it.

---------- Post added at 08:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:34 AM ----------

Originally Posted by Roberta

It doesn't want water until the roots are 3-4 inches (and the leaves have started to spread out so there isn't a "pocket" to collect water) Repotting is best done before that happens, though...before the new roots get going. So it could be repotted now, then set it aside and ignore it until those new roots are well established and the new growth is leafed out. (Since one can't see how long the roots are unless it's in a clear pot and maybe not even then, I am guided by the leaves, and also look for the second flush of roots to get going... by that time the first batch will be well on its way. (The second batch of roots is typically a month or 6 weeks after the first)

If I repot it now, it will definitely go in a clear pot. Phals are a lot easier and I don't worry as much about seeing the roots, but all the other orchids seem much pickier so I think I'd feel better seeing the roots. So, if I repot now, I should wait for leaves and a second growth of roots before watering. Am I getting that right?

---------- Post added at 08:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:39 AM ----------

Originally Posted by fishmom

Take Roberta's good advice. I have two After Dark plants, one in S/H and one in a bark mix medium, and both are healthy and thriving. I would say you should use whatever method you like best. A bonus about using S/H with catasetinae is that the new roots will all be well adapted to the medium you choose if you repot now. You can orient the plant in the new pot so that the growth will be close to upright and have plenty of room. Be sure to leave the old roots to anchor the plant firmly and give the new roots a good base to grow from.

If I put it in s/h should I wait to make the switch? Another person on here asked about how to let it "rest" if it is in s/h, and I'm concerned about the same thing. If I put it in s/h now, doesn't that count as watering it? I have put maybe a teaspoonful of water in there since I got it. I was told to do that once a month when the flowers were in bloom, but other than that I haven't watered it at all.

Sorry if it's a lot of questions, but it's actually kinda hard to find some of this info online b/c most of the searches just show really vague care tips or plants for sale.

---------- Post added at 08:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:43 AM ----------

Originally Posted by Subrosa

Just because the roots get 3"-4" long doesn't necessarily mean you have to start watering. You definitely shouldn't water intil that point, but there's some thought that Catasetum get "lazy" about growing roots once they find moisture. I wait until the previous year's pseudobulb shows signs of shriveling before I start watering.

I'm not sure which bulb is from last year. Would that be the thick, smooth, shiny, lighter green one? I think it might also be the tallest. How shriveled should it get? Is that when I could move it to s/h? I'm trying to get all of the orchids in s/h because I feel like I will kill them with love and fussing with them otherwise.

[Subrosa]

Originally Posted by mofms1

Thanks! Wish I could take credit for how it looks, but I haven't had it long enough. Will the new roots come out from the top, like air roots on a phal? I'm worried I won't even see the new roots and will miss my chance to repot it.

---------- Post added at 08:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:34 AM ----------



If I repot it now, it will definitely go in a clear pot. Phals are a lot easier and I don't worry as much about seeing the roots, but all the other orchids seem much pickier so I think I'd feel better seeing the roots. So, if I repot now, I should wait for leaves and a second growth of roots before watering. Am I getting that right?

---------- Post added at 08:43 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:39 AM ----------



If I put it in s/h should I wait to make the switch? Another person on here asked about how to let it "rest" if it is in s/h, and I'm concerned about the same thing. If I put it in s/h now, doesn't that count as watering it? I have put maybe a teaspoonful of water in there since I got it. I was told to do that once a month when the flowers were in bloom, but other than that I haven't watered it at all.

Sorry if it's a lot of questions, but it's actually kinda hard to find some of this info online b/c most of the searches just show really vague care tips or plants for sale.

---------- Post added at 08:46 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:43 AM ----------



I'm not sure which bulb is from last year. Would that be the thick, smooth, shiny, lighter green one? I think it might also be the tallest. How shriveled should it get? Is that when I could move it to s/h? I'm trying to get all of the orchids in s/h because I feel like I will kill them with love and fussing with them otherwise.

It should be the largest. I start watering when as soon as I notice it's no longer smooth. You should move it before the new roots start growing to avoid damaging them. Fwiw I grow the overwhelming majority of my plants in s/h, but not my Catasetum. Instead I grow in a layered substrate, with the bottom 2/3 of the pot filled with regular composted cow manure, and the top 1/3 with whatever basically inert medium I have on hand. I've used Sphagnum, but last year switched to cedar mulch because it's much cheaper. Once they're in full growth mode Catasetum are by far the greediest feeders of any orchids I keep. Once the roots grow down through the inert layer into the manure they're ready for all those nutrients. I keep the pots in a shallow tray with a bit of water in it constantly until I notice leaves yellowing, at which point I start drying them out in preparation for dormancy.

[isurus79]

Seems like good advice in this thread. You could even split this plant in half when you repot and have an extra one to play with or trade.