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  #11  
Old 06-05-2018, 10:08 PM
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pychou77 pychou77 is offline
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I am not good at growing orchids and have learned a few hard lessons. Your new pot looks too big, in my opinion, to maintain a short dry-wet cycle, and harmful microorganism will come back to eat their lunch on the roots again.. .

If your phal is a must-save, a setup like the attached pictures is something to consider.

The phal in pic lost all but two 2" roots, and now a new root is coming out after one month of intensive care...
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Phalaenopsis Orchid with yellow/brown leaves-net-potting-phal-10-jpg   Phalaenopsis Orchid with yellow/brown leaves-net-potting-phal-07-jpg  

Last edited by pychou77; 06-05-2018 at 10:15 PM..
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  #12  
Old 06-05-2018, 11:59 PM
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As for how long to wait, patience is the key word. Orchids teach patience. It could take several months to do much of anything. Personally, I'd let it sit for only a few days, then water well (like running through the pot, then make sure that it drains well - new bark does not hold much moisture, so the danger of overwatering is much reduced. The roots don't want "wet" as much as they do "humid" - the water that clings to the bark, with all that nice fresh air space, gives them the humid air that they crave.
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  #13  
Old 06-06-2018, 12:17 AM
Arose66 Arose66 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pychou77 View Post
I am not good at growing orchids and have learned a few hard lessons. Your new pot looks too big, in my opinion, to maintain a short dry-wet cycle, and harmful microorganism will come back to eat their lunch on the roots again.. .

If your phal is a must-save, a setup like the attached pictures is something to consider.

The phal in pic lost all but two 2" roots, and now a new root is coming out after one month of intensive care...
Thank you for the advice! I'll shop around for a smaller clear pot, I think it will also help me to know when my Phal needs/doesn't need water. I appreciate the help!

---------- Post added at 09:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:16 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberta View Post
As for how long to wait, patience is the key word. Orchids teach patience. It could take several months to do much of anything. Personally, I'd let it sit for only a few days, then water well (like running through the pot, then make sure that it drains well - new bark does not hold much moisture, so the danger of overwatering is much reduced. The roots don't want "wet" as much as they do "humid" - the water that clings to the bark, with all that nice fresh air space, gives them the humid air that they crave.
Thank you for the advice!
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  #14  
Old 06-06-2018, 08:11 AM
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BTW, I would also take out all the roots that are mushy - as harmful microorganisms are having party in there.. . Try not let them take the party over to your new pot. IMHO, the phal would have better chance to recover with fewer healthy roots than with lots of unhealthy roots.

One other thing I am still learning is to check orchids in dire condition with the nose. You might train your dog to do it if you have one.

Put your nose close to the pot (or any other type of setup) near the base or roots of the orchid. If it has the musty basement smell, the pot/setup has enough moisture for the orchid, and for harmful microorganism as well. If it smells more like a rain forest, the orchid and the good microorganism should be pretty happy.

Last edited by pychou77; 06-06-2018 at 08:37 AM..
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  #15  
Old 06-06-2018, 11:05 AM
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When repotted, it's really important that the plant be stable in the pot. So, if you cut off all the bad lookng roots there may be nothing to hold it steady. I'd take off the rotted velamin, but if the "cure" (which is the actual root) doesn't come off with a gentle tug, leave it - along with anchoring the plant, it can also draw water into the plant by capillary action (think "wet string") and help keep it hydrated until it grows some new good ones.

In short, you can remove what comes off easily with your fingers, but put the clippers away!
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  #16  
Old 06-07-2018, 01:25 AM
aliceinwl aliceinwl is offline
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I would also add that roots with black mushy sections between green / firm sections are still somewhat functional. They usually are on the way out, but cutting them can really set a plant back when re-potting.
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  #17  
Old 06-08-2018, 01:46 AM
Arose66 Arose66 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roberta View Post
When repotted, it's really important that the plant be stable in the pot. So, if you cut off all the bad lookng roots there may be nothing to hold it steady. I'd take off the rotted velamin, but if the "cure" (which is the actual root) doesn't come off with a gentle tug, leave it - along with anchoring the plant, it can also draw water into the plant by capillary action (think "wet string") and help keep it hydrated until it grows some new good ones.

In short, you can remove what comes off easily with your fingers, but put the clippers away!
Thank you for the tip! When I was trimming if the root didn't feel totally rotted (if it was even remotely firm still, despite the color) I just decided left it be. I appreciate the help!
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