Just remember that nearly everyone has had an experience with an orchid while learning. They aren't particular difficult (many of them anyway) but they do take time to learn how their care is just different from most other plants.

and then there was one.

until the last leaf drops.

lets do it.

Sorry to see this. You may end up saving it but remember if you don't that you can get another and start it from the beginning with the new knowledge that you have.

---------- Post added at 06:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:34 PM ----------

Some stores like Winn Dixie and rouses if you have one of those have $10 and $14 orchids that are pretty nice if you can catch them the first week they come in.

Sorry :( I would take anything scented away from your plant, it can't be good for it. You still may have a chance.

Thank you for the kind words! :cool:

I'm gonna follow your advice wintergirl.

I'll be sure to look into those stores, ShadePlant, orchids are pretty challenging and that's where it gets fun!

Here's hoping for the best!:crossfing

You can still save it. This is what you do, go find a clear box that's big enuff to fit the plant. If you have moss, wet it and squeese all the water out, lay the moss at the bottom of the box and put the plant ontop of it and close the lid. Put it in bright warm area, no direct sun or heat. If you have no moss, use paper towel, make sure squeeze every bit of water out. Check daily for mold and fungus. If use paper towel, check to see if it dry, if it is, wet it and do the process over again. You might be able to save it. The enclosed box is to keep humidity high. I've sav some using this method.

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HOPE HAS BEEN RESTORED, IF ONLY TEMPORARILY BUT I'LL TAKE IT.

CAN I USE A CLEAR PLASTIC BAG??

Here are my guys incubating

I used twist ties to close off the top a bit to hold in a bit more moisture whilst also allowing them to breathe.

I stuck my finger inside the hole and it is noticeable humid in there, my fingers felt moist.

How will I know when it is safe to repot?

My phals are in the ICU.

Hold on boys, we aren't going down without a fight.

I searched about this method before. In my opinion, the moist paper towel isn't supposed to touch the plant at all. And looks like you added a lot of it! I would take a ziplock bag, place the plant inside and on the opposite corner, place the squeezed paper towel (just one sheet) making sure it doesn't have any contact with the leaves or roots. Just last night, I placed 3 of my sick Phals on ziplock bags. Mold may show up on the old spike and you have to clean it daily. I was never able to save any of my Phals this way because I panicked every time I see mold growing but, as I was reading, it's normal and you just have to clean it.
Here are the pics:
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...f4f07811ff.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...a4cd18d9f5.jpghttp://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...cb837bd8ee.jpg
Also, go to Rays website (firstrays.com) and read about Sphag-in-bag. You can find under Free Information, on Root rot- causes and cure. I don't know how to link it, otherwise I would!


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Thank you for the feedback, Dri312.

I'll look into it and I'm on it!

I'll link it for you:

Pests & Ailments - First Rays LLC

When we water, some (most) of the liquid simply runs through the pot, some of it is absorbed by the potting medium components, while more of it is held by surface tension in between the medium particles. Referring to the articles on Air Management and Particle Packing, we understand that the smaller the spaces between the particles, the more easily that so-called “bridging water” is maintained, allowing it to more completely cut off the air flow pathways.

If the air flow to the root system is stifled long enough, the gas exchange is compromised, and the roots die due to a combination of suffocation from the lack of oxygen, and poisoning by its own waste gases.

Once the root tissue dies, the natural resistance to pathogens is eliminated, and the roots will rot.


OK, so we have root rot. Now what do we do?

Usually we let it happen by waiting too long to repot, letting a poor plant suffocate its roots in a dense, mucky mess. Of course, it’s often our most valuable or favorite plant, so how do we get the plant to recover?

First, keep in mind that as a “natural creature”, the plant has a survival mechanism, so it wants to recover. Then, with that in mind, consider that our job is give it the highest likelihood of doing so.


1. A plant with no roots has no way to take up water, but can lose water through leaf stomata and cell wall permeation. As the plant dries, it gets weaker and weaker, making it less likely to have the energy to recover. That drying rate is directly related to the relative humidity, so high humidity sustains the plant while it tries to grow new roots.
2. Plant growth rates are directly related to the temperature, and warmer equals faster. You want the plants’ metabolism to be faster, in hope that it will recover before the negative effects of desiccation kick in.
3. Low light levels seems counter-intuitive, as plants need light to create the sugars they “burn” to function, but doing so requires water as well, further depleting the plants’ internal supplies. By keeping the plant in subdued light (not dark), you minimize that loss, again, extending the time that the plant can grow those new roots.

“Sphag -n-Bag”

Misting is of little value, as the plant cannot take up a substantial amount of liquid water through its leaves, and the brief period that the humidity is raised by periodic misting is likely insufficient to be of much benefit. The key is maintaining high humidity, not so much because of the easier absorption of water vapor (which is the case), but because a saturated environment prevents further loss of water from the plant tissues while it attempts to grow new roots. Basically, the “sphag-n-bag” concept uses a small bit of damp sphagnum as a moisture supply, and a plastic bag as a “micro-greenhouse” in which the elevated humidity can be easily maintained.

That’s simple enough, but a big mistake that many folks make is placing the plant in direct contact with moss that’s too wet.

The technique I use involves preparing the plant, then setting up the “rescue” environment:

Plant Preparation

* Remove any old organic media that may be sticking to the roots. If it’s difficult to remove, just wait.
* Using a sterile blade, trim off any dead or damaged roots.
* Add about one tablespoon of KelpMax rootstimulant to a gallon of 80°F water. Do not add fertilizer to the soaking solution, as that will tend to draw water out of the plant.
* Soak the plant for about an hour or more.
* Remove any remaining organic media – it’s bound to come off after the soaking.

Setting up the Environment (this is the easy part).

* Get a clear plastic bag large enough to comfortably hold the plant.
* Place a small amount of damp sphagnum moss in one corner of the bag. You may substitute a piece of folded-up paper towel for the moss, or just add a teaspoon of water to the bag.
* Place the plant in the bag, oriented as if growing normally, and not in direct contact with the moss or any free liquid.
* Seal the bag. If it’s a Zip-Lock, that’s easy, if not, fold over the top several times and hold it with a paper clip.
* Place it in a warm, shady location and walk away.Placing the plant in that warm, shady location (not dark) is important: The warmth will induce some growth activity, but the shade serves to moderate the vegetative growth while the plant develops new roots. Furthermore, warmth results in a higher moisture content of the air in the bag, and the shade prevents the bag from becoming a broiler, as it would become if direct sun hits it.

In a few weeks, the plant is likely to have developed a new root system, at which point it can be repotted.

Another idea for those of you who grow your plants in Semi-Hydroponic™ culture: Pot up your suffering plant and then place the plant – pot and all – in the bag. It will get all of the benefits of the “sphag-n-bag” environment, but has the bonus of growing its roots into the medium without the need for repotting afterward.