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  #1  
Old 10-27-2014, 11:54 AM
mimigirl mimigirl is offline
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I have waited for months for this to bloom so that i could get ID and advice. Is this Ludisia Discolor Dawsoniana? Why does it bloom, lose its leaves (2nd one since bud spike is failing) and it doesn't grow? I am totally stumped. Planted in spaghnum.
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  #2  
Old 10-27-2014, 12:30 PM
cbuchman cbuchman is offline
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It is certainly Ludisia. It doesn't look too happy. Mine grow quite steadily with constant moisture and high humidity.

Sphagnum is always problematic for me and I report out of it at the earliest opportunity. It goes sour very fast depending on the quality of your water. For me, it goes bad in under 6 months.

Good Luck!
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  #3  
Old 10-27-2014, 12:40 PM
mimigirl mimigirl is offline
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helpSo what to use as potting media, cbuchman? Is it blooming cause it is under stress? What can i do to save it?

---------- Post added at 11:40 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:38 AM ----------

How about AV soil?
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  #4  
Old 10-27-2014, 12:44 PM
cbuchman cbuchman is offline
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I would just monitor the media carefully. Don't let it dry out. Once it finished blooming I would report. I have mine in a small bark mixture with some perlite and charcoal and help keep it open.

Here is what Orchid Wiz says for culture:
LIGHT: 800-1500 fc. Light should be very filtered or diffused, and plants should not be exposed to direct sun. Strong air movement should be provided at all times.

TEMPERATURES: Summer days average 80-81F (27C), and nights average 70-71F (21-22C), with a diurnal range of 10F (6C).

HUMIDITY: 85-90% year-round. WATER: Rainfall is heavy most of the year, with a 2-3 month somewhat drier period in winter. Cultivated plants should be watered heavily while actively growing; but they should dry somewhat between waterings, and conditions around the roots should never be allowed to become stale or soggy. Water should be reduced gradually in autumn after new growths have matured.

FERTILIZER: 1/4–1/2 recommended strength, applied weekly when plants are actively growing. Many growers prefer to use a balanced fertilizer throughout the year; but others use a high-nitrogen fertilizer from spring to midsummer, then switch to one high in phosphates in late summer and autumn.

REST PERIOD: Winter days average 59-64F (15-18C), and nights average 48-53F (9-12C), with a diurnal range of 10-11F (6C). These are about the coolest conditions to which this orchid should be exposed. Plants found in regions further south experience winter temperatures somewhat warmer than indicated, and cultivated plants should adapt to a fairly wide range of conditions. If grown in warmer conditions in winter, plants should not be allowed to become as dry between waterings as are those grown in cooler conditions. Rainfall is lower in winter, but heavy dew and mist provide some additional moisture. Water should be reduced for cultivated plants in winter, particularly those grown with cooler temperatures, but they should not be allowed to dry out completely or to remain without water for long periods. Fertilizer should be reduced or eliminated until heavier watering is resumed in spring.

GROWING MEDIA: Because of their creeping growth habit, these plants should be grown in shallow, bulb-pan type containers that are well-drained and filled with a very open, fast draining medium such as medium-sized fir bark or shredded tree-fern fiber. Materials such as perlite or chopped sphagnum moss that help hold the medium open and also retain some moisture are often added to the potting mix. In addition, charcoal is often added to help keep the medium open and prevent it from becoming sour. Hawkes (1965) recommended using a perfectly-drained compost, as rich and porous as possible, and suggested a mixture consisting of equal parts of shredded tree-fern fiber or osmunda, sphagnum moss, porous pea-size gravel or crushed pumice, and leaf-mold. Pridgeon (1992), however, reports that plants will thrive in any terrestrial compost, including commercial potting soil. Plants should be repotted when the medium starts to break down or when the plant has outgrown its pot. Repotting should be done just as new root growth is starting to enable the plant to become reestablished in the shortest possible time. These plants are relatively easy to propagate from stem cuttings.
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  #5  
Old 10-27-2014, 12:55 PM
mimigirl mimigirl is offline
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Oh i need to repot shall and correct my potting media. Then an individual humidity tray. Also my light is too much. I can use packing peanuts to fill bottom of pot. But would like to find shall pots. Will look now. I guess clay? Thanks so much Carrie!
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