Phalaenopsis recovery time after repotting?

[PapaPhal]

Hi everyone,
Let me first say that I am a proud Papa but I think the children are running scared. I am new to this forum and this is my first post. Let me tell you a little about my brief orchid growing history. I reside in Eastern Colorado and I am new to growing orchids. However, I do have a few different kinds: phalaenopsis, cattleyas and even what I think is an odontoglossum - purchased due to ignorance, I thought it was a cattleya. All of my orchids are simply grown in my house without any special environmentally controlled conditions. My cattleyas have never bloomed which I believe is due to their location. I do not think they were getting enough sunshine. I have since moved them to an east facing window where they seem to be doing much better based on their color and growth. Half of my phalaenopsis are recovering from my grand visions and experimentation. Surprisingly none have completely died. My odontoglossum, that’s better left for another thread but it seems to be doing well.
I have repotted five of my seven phalaenopsis. Of the five that have been repotted they are in various stages of life, from recovering from a near death experience to doing well. Some are in sphagnum and the ones that are recovering nicely are in a coarse phalaenopsis mix and getting ready to bloom from spikes growing off of the original spike. No new spikes are starting. The two that have been spared from repotting, they are in same pots as they were purchased in, are growing new spikes as well as blooming off the original spikes.
My question has to do with what to expect after repotting a phalaenopsis. Assuming that the repotting is done correctly, how long does it take them to recover?

[tucker85]

Many orchids do not like to be repotted and take some time to recover from the stress. Phals seem to be an exception to this rule and often react to repotting with a burst of new growth. The fresh media is apparently more of a positive thing for the plant than the negative stress caused by repotting. Of course this isn't universally true. Every plant is unique. I have a Phal Orchid World that sulks for months every time I repot it but most of my phals don't miss a beat and start growing immediately. Good luck.

[SlipperGirl]

Well there is no set time for them to recover after they are repoted but if the plant is healthy I think about 2 weeks give or take. If the plant is not healthy i think a few months.

Welcome and good luck

[Phalchid]

Well, I agree with Tucker85. Phals normally show a growth spurt soon after repotting. But I have had some mini phals that looked like they'd never make it after I repotted them. In fact, I have two right now that are not at all happy. One looks like its given up hope. And the other looks too tired. I have never been able to figure out why this happens only to my mini phals. But I hope that you won't encounter any such thing. Good Luck and Happy New Year!!

[PapaPhal]

I have thought that repotting would be easy, and maybe with a little more experience it is, but for now it is somewhat difficult. If sphagnum is used as the medium, I am learning that it is very easy to over pack it which does not allow enough ventilation to the roots and it remains damp for a long time. If a more coarse medium is used, it seems that it is a bit difficult to get it to pack tightly enough so that the pot stays attached to the plant when it is lifted up. If extra care is not taken when pushing the coarse medium into the pot it seems like root damage can occur. With all that being said, how critical is the tightness of the potting medium? I cannot help but notice how tight the pot is on store bought plants.

[james mickelso]

It is a function of "how" they were repotted. Anytime you injure roots on an orchid it will take time and stored energy to heal and start growing. That is the key. To repot, first gently take it out of the media it is potted in and carefully remove what is easily removable, and repot it gently. Slowly, carefully pour in a small amount of potting media and gently shake to help settle the media without damaging the roots, then pour in some more and gently shake. I bounce the pot on a firm surface but shaking is good too. Remember that orchids by and large are air plants not needing soil or really contact with anything other than a tree branch or rock face. We put them in media to keep them humidified, and stable. That's all. If yours are planted in moss, carefully use tweezers to pull out the moss from the roots gently. If it doesn't want to come out or the bark/lava rock/coco chips don't come off completely, leave it. Then the next best thing you can do for your orchid is to mist the leaves, especially the underside of the leaves with good clean water. I use distilled or RO for this. Do it as often as you can to help keep the plant hydrated. This helps by supplying the stoma (small pores located on the undersides of the leaves,, the lungs of the plant) with moisture while the roots become acclimated to the new environment. Simple. If done properly most orchids take off within a week or so. The roots of the orchid have become acclimated to a humid environment inside the potting media and most new media take time to become saturated with water. It sets back the roots but if you mist the plants as often as you can with good water, the plant then stays hydrated and shouldn't deteriorate at all. If you can put it on a heat mat (?) all the better. Food at this time is unimportant. FirstRays has an excellent product for helping your orchid grow better roots. Or Superthrive. Denver, or anywhere really cold and dry is a tough sell for orchids but they will get going when it warms. Good light is a must especially if you want catts, ect to bloom.

[Phalchid]

I, personally like the coarse medium, because it drains well. Yes, the plant will not be tightly placed in a coarse medium, but when you have spikes you have support for them, right? Add one more support at a different angle, so the plant does not move every time you water it. If you choose to use a coarse medium, make sure you soak it overnight, so the plant won't suffer from transplant shock, and won't lose its blooms.

[tucker85]

If you pick up a properly potted phalaenopsis by the leaves, it will lift out of the pot. It should not be so tight that the pot will stay on. I don't know where that old idea came from but I've heard it a lot lately. You will not have good success trying to grow phals in tightly packed sphagnum moss like you find on newly purchased plants.

There are many media formulas but I grow my phals in 4 parts medium coconut husk chips, 1 part charcoal and 1 part sponge rock or LECA. I've also had success with just straight medium coconut husk chips. Very small phals in 2" or 2.5" pots need a finer medium. I have the most success when I use the smallest pot that the roots will comfortable fit in. I use clear plastic pots with lots of drainage holes and slits on the sides for pots over 4". It's hard to get the medium into the pot when you use small pots. Since I use clear pots I can see where the gaps are in the medium. I use the blunt end of a bamboo skewer to push medium down in and around the roots. It's OK if the medium is not tightly packed, a few gaps will remain. If the small pot tends to fall over, I put the plastic pot inside a larger clay or ceramic pot with enough room so air can circulate around the sides.

[PapaPhal]

Thank you all for your responses. Yes phalchid I do help support the spikes with stakes and those fancy clips. Most of my plants seem fairly secure. They do not move around when I water them and for what it is worth I too like the coarse medium.
The one thing that I am starting to realize from growing orchids is that "patience is a virtue" especially for new inexperienced growers like me. Sometimes I want to see the fruits of my labor right away. These orchids are telling me in their own way to slow down, take your time, do it right... If all that is done I may reward you in the spring.

[james mickelso]

You can also use lava rock or even granite rock in the bottom of a pot to help keep it from tipping. Tucker, do you wash the coco chips for awhile when you get them to leach out the salts? It stays too cool and humid here to use them much. But I thought I would try them in smaller pots. When potting up an orchid, it isn't necessary to get the media completely filling the pot around the roots. These are air plants and don't need to be covered in media. It just stabilizes the plant in the pot. A plant stake works too. Here's one I made. It was easy. Wire and a pair of pliers.