My rescue experiment

[plantluvver]

The Phal.not in a pot was labeled Phal 'Brother Mirage'. However I think some of the orchid in the round pot came loose also. I did not have two unpotted plants when I put them into the bag. This one was just sitting on top of the media. I think the first pick is the Phal. and the second one is a bit of the 'corsage orchid.'

The one in the round pot she said was a 'corsage orchid.'

The pink label of the other named variety can be seen in the photo. It is dtps. Taisuso candystripes x Phal amabillis


There is one that does not look all dried out, but that one is crinkly. What causes this type of growth? That one is labeled Miltonia.

Two more random things without labels. I don't know if it really matters what it is, when it is in this bad shape. Anyway, I will try to do what I can with them.

[plantluvver]

This is the after version of the first two photos above.
they have been soaked a bit, and cleaned up.

from what I read, green roots are good, and five is a nice minimum number. I am not sure whether to take the Phal. Brother Mirage leaf off or not. Also not sure whether to pot it up now, or wait. Hopefully I will find the thread again. (Or someone will make a suggestion.)

[Junebug]

Your probably going to loose the phal. If it retains the leaf you might have a chance of it sprouting a basal keiki. Be careful when soaking phals, not to include the leaves in the soak because it promotes crown rot.

Where did you get those plants?

[plantluvver]

I got them from Freecycle.

[plantluvver]

I am going away for the weekend. I placed them both in damp moss, along with one or two others. The other pots I gave a good soak to, and yes, I did wet the crown of the plant.

The small ones are indoors, the large ones I left outside, especially since I am concerned that the one labeled Miltonia may have something weird going on with it. The leaves don't feel sticky, but the only other times I have had plant leaves not open properly, it was an infestation of something.

[Junebug]

Freecycle, that's good. At least your giving them a chance to recover. I was gifted with about a dozen badly neglected/near death chids last winter. About half of them were beyond recovery with bulbs rotting, but the others pulled through. One was unidentifiable. It's still tiny and fragile, but I think it's some sort of oncidium. I'm not too good with bringing oncidiums back from the brink, but who knows, it might survive. Good luck with your rescues.

[Junebug]

Originally Posted by plantluvver

I am going away for the weekend. I placed them both in damp moss, along with one or two others. The other pots I gave a good soak to, and yes, I did wet the crown of the plant.

The small ones are indoors, the large ones I left outside, especially since I am concerned that the one labeled Miltonia may have something weird going on with it. The leaves don't feel sticky, but the only other times I have had plant leaves not open properly, it was an infestation of something.

Where are you located? I live in Central Florida and I haven't had success with Miltonias. The heat might be too much for them as I grow everything outdoors. The oncidium alliance is a challenge for me. I can grow dancing ladies and Sharry Baby, but the rest have just pooped out. I do have one Wilsonara that grows great, so much so, that I have 3 divisions. It won't bloom though because it needs sustained periods of a 10 degree temperature drop to initiate spikes. Actually, one did grow a short spike last winter but it was kind of sad looking with just a few pretty blooms.

[Junebug]

Your corsage orchid would be something in the cattleya alliance. The accordian leaves are usually a sign that the plant needs more water, but in your case the plant may have lost all of of it's roots due to overwatering or decomposed media. If this is the case, it won't be able to absorb water until it grows new roots or new growths with new roots. Make sure you unpot everything for a root check and thorough clean-up. Sterilize you cutting instruments between cuts on each plant. Flame can be used on your nippers or you can use a fresh razor blade. Cut off all the mushy brown/black, or hollow roots, and remove any parts of the rhizomes or bulbs back to healty tissue and treat the cuts with a good dab of powdered cinnamon. Preserve as many leaves and as much healthy growth as possible. Chances are that your plants might actually benefit if they're allowed to dry out a few days after surgery...even if they have no roots. Dry conditions will encourage any cuts to scab over and discourage bacteria from entering. You can surround them with humidity, but try to avoid direct contact with moisture. Even after they're repotted you should avoid too much water for the first week or two.

I'm including some progression photos of a major cattleya division I undertook over the 4th of July weekend...befores and afters to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

All of these divisions were treated with a 3 in one systemic prior to being repotted.

[plantluvver]

thanks for the replies. I am hoping to work with these more now that I am back from my trip. I did not sterilize, but most of what I cut was so obviously dead and dried up that I did not think I was cutting into living tissue.


I live in Portland, OR.

Maybe I will recut the roots again, and use cinnamon and a sterile blade next time.

I checked the ones in moss, and the moss was still damp. They are only very loosely packed in moss.

[Hornemadness]

I would leave the leaf on the phal. Ive had phals in worse shape come out of the dumpster and live. Just keep it in a pot and treat it as you would any other phal. This has worked for me with all kinds of orchids i've pulled outta the dumpster.