The Phal abuse ends here.

[Discus]

I'm also partly wrong- evidently the day's caffeine has worn off...

Potash is of course rich in potassium (K). Link the two by thinking of Sean Connery speaking... Potash --- Potasshium!

[alley]

Is it ok to use seaweed extract and a fertilizer as well?

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

The genus Phalaenopsis is commonly known as "Moth Orchids". The scientific abbreviation for Phalaenopsis is Phal.

Countries of origin:

Cambodia
Indonesia
Laos
Malaysia
Myanmar
Papua New Guinea
Taiwan
Thailand
The Philippines
southern China
Vietnam

Habitats:
- wet and humid subtropical and tropical Asian forests

Certain species will inhabit:
- seasonally wet subtropical deciduous forests
- seasonally wet subtropical semi-deciduous forests

Most species will inhabit:
- swamp forests
- wet tropical karst limestone hill forests
- wet tropical coastal forests

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Growth Habit:
- epiphytical
- lithophytic

Growth orientation:
- Phals grow horizontally or pendulously off their perches with their leaf tips pointing towards the ground.

* FALLACY: Phals grow upright. *

** TRUTH: Phals hang horizontally or pendulously. **

How Phals grow epiphytically:

- They hang horizontally or pendulously off of trees that are usually barren of moss or have thin patches of moss, either on the branches of trees or tree trunks.

- Sometimes they hang horizontally or pendulously off of trees that are covered in lichens, either on the branches or tree trunks.

How Phals grow lithophytically:

- They hang horizontally or pendulously off of wet cliff faces or outcroppings.

- Some specifically grow on wet limestone.

- Example: Phal maculata.

*** Amendment ***

With the recent induction of plants in the genus Doritis into the genus Phalaenopsis, there are now Phals that do grow upright. But these are currently reserved for Phals that used to be known as Doritis.

- So, for example:

Phal (Doritis) pulcherrima, grows upright and have leaves that are held out horizontally.

Photo evidence of Phal pulcherrima being an upright growing Phal, having leaves that are held out horizontally, and of the orchid growing in such a manner as a lithophyte:

http://a402.idata.over-blog.com/3/75...cherrima_2.jpg

[Eyebabe]

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

Growth orientation:
- Phals grow horizontally or pendulously off their perches with their leaf tips pointing towards the ground.

* FALLACY: Phals grow upright. *

** TRUTH: Phals hang horizontally or pendulously. **

How Phals grow epiphytically:

- They hang horizontally or pendulously off of trees that are usually barren of moss or have thin patches of moss, either on the branches of trees or tree trunks.

- Sometimes they hang horizontally or pendulously off of trees that are covered in lichens, either on the branches or tree trunks.

How Phals grow lithophytically:

- They hang horizontally or pendulously off of wet cliff faces or outcroppings.

- Some specifically grow on wet limestone.

- Example: Phal maculata.

Philip you have such a way with words
Me thinks I hear someone asking how to avoid "crown rot"


PS. Your commentary is wonderful and the time you took to elaborate on the physiology and care of phals is greatly appreciated

[King_of_orchid_growing:)]

Originally Posted by Eyebabe

Philip you have such a way with words
Me thinks I hear someone asking how to avoid "crown rot"


PS. Your commentary is wonderful and the time you took to elaborate on the physiology and care of phals is greatly appreciated

Thank you.

Q: How do I avoid crown rot on my Phal?

A:

1. If the Phal is grown in a pot, try and orient them as naturally as possible (they'll be in a "leaning" position).

2. If they're mounted, position them either horizontally or pendulously.

3. Attempt to avoid getting water into the crown as much as possible.

Q: What if water does end up getting into the crown, then what?

A:

1. Blow the water out of the crown. Some people use a straw to do it (it's not necessary to use a straw though).

2. Use a cotton swab or a piece of tissue paper or napkin and dab the water out of the crown.

[alley]

Originally Posted by King_of_orchid_growing:)

Thank you.

Q: How do I avoid crown rot on my Phal?

A:

1. If the Phal is grown in a pot, try and orient them as naturally as possible (they'll be in a "leaning" position).

2. If they're mounted, position them either horizontally or pendulously.

3. Attempt to avoid getting water into the crown as much as possible.

Q: What if water does end up getting into the crown, then what?

A:

1. Blow the water out of the crown. Some people use a straw to do it (it's not necessary to use a straw though).

2. Use a cotton swab or a piece of tissue paper or napkin and dab the water out of the crown.

Could you clarify what you meant by a 'leaning position' for me? I recently repotted and want to make sure I did it right...if you have a photo that would exemplify that would be great....

[JDawggie]

Hi Everyone -- I just joined the orchid board and have a question about my Phals.

Three out of my five Phalaenopsis plants have completed their blooming (all the flowers dropped off and the top part of the stems turned brown), so I cut the stems after the second node (with sterile scissors).

It has been about 4 weeks since I have done this on one of my orchids and I see a ton of new roots spiking out, but no flowering spikes....it seems that in order to get a flowering spike, I will need to drop the temperature, correct?

Currently my orchids are on a window sill facing the east...what would you suggest for "dropping the temp" to encourage a flower spike? Do you just move them away from the window? Or somewhere else in the house not at an eastern facing window? I have never had any orchid spike...so I am looking forward to this!

Thanks,
Jared

[sucuz]

Originally Posted by JDawggie

Hi Everyone -- I just joined the orchid board and have a question about my Phals.

Three out of my five Phalaenopsis plants have completed their blooming (all the flowers dropped off and the top part of the stems turned brown), so I cut the stems after the second node (with sterile scissors).

It has been about 4 weeks since I have done this on one of my orchids and I see a ton of new roots spiking out, but no flowering spikes....it seems that in order to get a flowering spike, I will need to drop the temperature, correct?

Currently my orchids are on a window sill facing the east...what would you suggest for "dropping the temp" to encourage a flower spike? Do you just move them away from the window? Or somewhere else in the house not at an eastern facing window? I have never had any orchid spike...so I am looking forward to this!

Thanks,
Jared

Jared...patience. Until experience with each individual phal proves differently, assume your phal will bloom once a year (but for a couple of months when it does). As you care for your little darling, you will notice little green or reddish dunce caps emerging. Your heart soars as you anticipate the blooms that will soon follow. Sorry to burst the bubble, but these are new roots. This is not a bad thing & shows that your plant is happy & in growth mode. Eventually you will observe a new emergence that is flatter, green & "mitten-ey" looking. This is your new bloom spike. At this point you are a couple of months from flowers. As previously mentioned, growth will vary depending on individual phals & your growing conditions, but this will give you some general expectations. Don't give up because it has been a few weeks...or months & you still don't have flowers. It takes a while. (See great posts from Phillip for more details)

[T.L.E.King]

Thank you for your help. I have 9 orchids and 2 have keikis. One of my orchids has 2 on it. How long before the roots grow? I'm also waiting for flower stems to grow. I have 3 with flowers stems and the blooms are almost ready to open. I like reading about the orchids but I'm new a month ago and not sure how to get back to a page where people have answered my questions.

Thanks for you time.
Just me
Oh and I really like the smilies.