Assessing Bloom-less Lot

[jmforan]

I have ~ 25 G/H orchids, mostly Cattleya family but hybrids from Catasetnae, Odontoglossum, Cymbidium, Miltonia, Brassia, and Vanda and Dendrobium plants. Several indoor Phaelenopsis too. Other than initial blooms from "in spike" plants, nothing has bloomed in one year except the indoor Phaelenopsis which faithfully do so year after year. Still these orchids chug along with roots, and new leaves. So I need a strategy that I can apply to this diverse group for fine tuning. I have had good ideas from Orchid Board on case by case basis. My theory of try lots and see what sticks apparently didn't work as far as blooming these plants goes. I see people with flowering plants apparently in basements that look stunning. Here is my partial list of plants:
Cattleya Family:
Lc Bonanza Queen
Blc. Jane Helton x Blc Toshie Aoki Pizazz
Blc. Chia Lin “Shinsu #1”
Blc. Chyong Guu Chaffich “Dixies’s Joy
Blc Malworth x C. Mrs. Mahler
Blc King of Taiwan
Leoapard X Robert Strait
Slc seagull’s mini cat heaven
C. Bactia grape wax

Cymbidium Family:
Cymbidiella rhodochila

Catasetinae (Cycnoches, Catasetums, Mormodes, Clowesia)
Morm. Exotic Treat x Cyc. (barthiorum x cooperi)

Odontoglossum
Mystery Hybrid


Eplc (epidendrum laeliocattleya)
Eplc Mae Bly

Miltonia/Miltoniopsis
Mtssa. Charles M. Fitch “Izumi”
Dgmra Winter Wonderland White Fairy

Brassia
Alcra. (Aliceara) Pacific Nova “Butter Buds”

Vanda
V. Robert’s Delight “ink blue”
Ascda. Christine Ang x V. denisoniana
Ascda. (Fuchs Delight x John DeBiase)
V. Tokyo Blue x V. Kasem’s Delight

Oncidium
Onc. Mimentison
Colmanara Jungle Cat “Burma Ruby” (Colmanara Jungle Everglades)

Dendrobium
d. Fleckerii.

Can you suggest where I might focus my efforts to optimize blooms, i.e. are there any "no brainers" in the bunch? Thanks.
Jon

[slipperfreak]

The first thing I will point out is that orchids require a difference between day and night temperatures in order to flower. Often times, if the nights are not at least 10 F cooler than the days, the plants won't bloom. Insufficient light levels, and improper fertilization can also hold back flowers. For example, a lot of Cattleyas have trouble blooming if the light is not bright.

I will allow the specialists of each of these genera to go into specifics.

[slipperfreak]

Another thing I thought I'd add, is that some orchids take longer than a year to mature a growth and produce flowers. Do these plants have mature growths? If so, they may be ready to flower very soon; perhaps you just need more patience.

[camille1585]

Originally Posted by slipperfreak

The first thing I will point out is that orchids require a difference between day and night temperatures in order to flower. Often times, if the nights are not at least 10 F cooler than the days, the plants won't bloom. Insufficient light levels, and improper fertilization can also hold back flowers. For example, a lot of Cattleyas have trouble blooming if the light is not bright.

I will allow the specialists of each of these genera to go into specifics.

That is really over generalizing it. Some need cooler temps all winter. (the ones that need a winter rest) Phals need a general cool down in day AND night temperatures of just a few degrees for a few weeks. (that is how pro growers do it) Other respond to light. Cyms need the cooler nights like you mention and lots of light. So basically is really depends on the individual orchid.

Jon- Where are you keeping these plants? The number one reason for an orchid to not bloom is insufficient light. Vandas and catts need a lot of light. How much also depends on where you live.

[trdyl]

Jon, if you have access to a light meter it would be very helpful.

[slipperfreak]

Originally Posted by camille1585

That is really over generalizing it. Some need cooler temps all winter. (the ones that need a winter rest) Phals need a general cool down in day AND night temperatures of just a few degrees for a few weeks. (that is how pro growers do it) Other respond to light. Cyms need the cooler nights like you mention and lots of light. So basically is really depends on the individual orchid.

I don't think it's over generalizing at all. It is a fact that all orchids require a difference between day and night temperatures to flower - that's just basic orchid culture. If you read any article on orchid culture it will tell you that.

Winter cooling is a separate issue, and that does depend on the plant. In the case of Phals, you don't necessarily need a winter cool down (or at least not a pronounced one) - as long as you get that difference between day and night temps they flower freely. The same cannot be said for Cymbidiums. Winter cooling is part of a technique that I refer to as winter rest (a common term) that includes a decrease in moisture in combination with lower temps. Most of the "supermarket" plants you come across don't need a pronounced rest period to flower well. They are bred to flower freely in the home, and they usually do. Some species have rather specific requirements to trigger flowering - I could go on and on about Parvisepalous Paphs - but as those are not on Jon's list and I don't specialize in any of the plants that are, I left the specifics to people who do specialize in them.

[jmforan]

Well, I spoke too quickly. The Aliceara just spiked! (photo). It is exactly a year since I purchased so it must be an annual bloom. Also, the Mormodes which I purchased a couple months ago has a spike. (Pic included). To answer Q's, light is 1500-3500 fc mostly in the middle but lots of upper range in the am hours. Temp variation: Well I used to keep the G/H cool (75 F.) and saw the error of my ways in July and let the temp go to upper 80's. I believe that has been a problem. I also removed Aluminet which, while rated at 50%, was cutting light to ~1500-2000 fc (G/H is under an oak tree, so gets shade for free anyways).
What should I do while tending these early growths?
Also, Mormodes needs to go dormant soon. Will that effect it's flowering? Same question for my only Dendrobium. It has new growth but will go dormant soon. Is that typical just before wintering? Thanks.
Jon