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  #11  
Old 02-28-2021, 06:26 AM
Dr. Dave 4u Dr. Dave 4u is offline
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Wow...so much help with this question is awesome...

After reading what you wrote I wonder if anyone up north by me might have potentially sacrificed one catasetum for experiment to see if a light misting from a spray bottle say, much less say than the light sprays you tried in your climate, but just the lightest mist to not even soak the moss but barely wet it at all?

Do you think this level might be helpful?
I would try it if someone else had and found a benefit to it. Otherwise being its my first catasetum I hate to kill it though experimenting !!!
Whats your thoughts?
Thanks
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  #12  
Old 02-28-2021, 07:06 AM
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My sprays were 'relatively' light. But not super light. They were actually enough to wet the roots as well as the media. I figured that - out in the wild - it will rain ----- so some moisture isn't expected to kill a catasetum ----- unless the conditions are something extreme for the orchid ------ such as very cold and very wet around the roots and media.

On the other hand - if it looks as if the orchid has no need for water (unless the bulbs are dehydrating and drying right out) ----- then it's ok to not add any water --- that's provided the bulbs are still nice and plump.

And one recommendation from growers such as Fred Clarke even says one can add a little bit of water if needed - for cases where the bulb appears to be shriveling during dormancy.
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  #13  
Old 02-28-2021, 08:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Dave 4u View Post
Wow...so much help with this question is awesome...

After reading what you wrote I wonder if anyone up north by me might have potentially sacrificed one catasetum for experiment to see if a light misting from a spray bottle say, much less say than the light sprays you tried in your climate, but just the lightest mist to not even soak the moss but barely wet it at all?

Do you think this level might be helpful?
I would try it if someone else had and found a benefit to it. Otherwise being its my first catasetum I hate to kill it though experimenting !!!
Whats your thoughts?
Thanks
My thought would be you only have one catasetum, and you should follow the general guidelines for now. Once you have a skillset toward growing these, then you could experiment by dividing the bulbs after a few years and still not lose your plant if your experiment goes awry.

Or by then you'll be enchanted with them and have several, and you can make a couple of guinea pigs.

Growing and experimenting in a more tropical environment is a whole different ballgame than growing and experimenting in northern US. On that note, DrDave, it's helpful to put at least a state or zone into your profile. It does assist quite a bit when you ask questions for someone to give reliable answers. Note on the top right side of most members posts that it gives a location, varying from a region to a city/state, zone, state, etc? That's the place I'm indicating it would be helpful for you to add.
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  #14  
Old 02-28-2021, 10:47 AM
Dr. Dave 4u Dr. Dave 4u is offline
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Thank you so very much, I just updated my profile !!
I think if i lived in a tropical zone I'd be going nuts with ORCHIDS, BAMBOO, FRUIT TREES AND MORE!!!
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  #15  
Old 02-28-2021, 12:19 PM
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In habitat these get a fall-winter-spring dry season very much longer than the summer monsoon growing season. There are often 9 months with no rain. The humidity is lower at this time, often very much lower than during the rainy season. Misting the plant while dormant is giving it exactly what it does not get in habitat.

The plants have evolved to survive through this climate. It is what they expect of you. Pseudobulbs may shrivel drastically during the long dry season. The plants, perhaps in response to rising ambient humidity as the monsoon approaches, grow out to great lengths so the plant will be able to absorb the rain once it arrives. When rain comes the leafless pseudobulbs plump up again and the new shoot grows even faster.

I've seen what was either a Clowesia or a Mormodes species in the central plateau of Mexico in mid November. This was a desert area where Brahea palms grew on a huge flat inclined rock slab covering dozens of acres. The orchids were growing just under the crowns of the palms, so they had a little protection from the sun; they were leafless, and old flower stalks bore seed pods. There had been no rain since early September. The relative humidity probably was under 10%. It would not rain again until May. There is no winter dew in that desert.

Fred Clarke of Sunset Valley Orchids grows in greenhouses in Vista, California, inland over the coastal range from northern San Diego County. The climate is much hotter and drier than the coastal climate due to the mountains blocking the marine influence. It is already getting hot there by New Jersey standards - go to a weather site today and check Vista. He usually doesn't give any water to the Catasetums until around Memorial Day, the last Monday in May. It takes that long for the roots to grow to the proper length.

People here have reported success watering early. I have watched many members of our orchid society water early and lose their plants. I agree it is tempting to water when you see new roots growing. About half of my plants are beginning new shoots now, but I have no root growth yet.

In areas where temperatures never drop below about 55 F / 14C, like Hawaii, people do water them all year and they grow successfully. But those kinds of areas have warmer winters and more winter sun than most of the US.

My observation has been that people who are unable to walk past their cat or dog without stuffing treats into it are unable to grow Catasetums because they can't stop watering.
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  #16  
Old 02-28-2021, 12:54 PM
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My observation has been that people who are unable to walk past their cat or dog without stuffing treats into it are unable to grow Catasetums because they can't stop watering.
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  #17  
Old 02-28-2021, 01:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Dr. Dave 4u View Post
Thank you so very much, I just updated my profile !!
I think if i lived in a tropical zone I'd be going nuts with ORCHIDS, BAMBOO, FRUIT TREES AND MORE!!!
So would I! But it appears one can go pretty nuts here in Kansas as well.

---------- Post added at 12:09 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:03 PM ----------

Spot on estación! My husband is a skinny guy, and constantly I'm scolding him about feeding too many treats to all the animals. Really have to watch him, especially with the dogs. I keep telling him to stuff a few of those treats in his mouth instead. But frankly it's just jealousy. He's one of those who can stuff all kinds of treats into his mouth and never gain an ounce. It all ends up on me.

---------- Post added at 12:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:09 PM ----------

I'm also doing my first year of growing catasetum, but I'll post it over on my thread about it so I don't hijack yours DrDave.
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  #18  
Old 02-28-2021, 02:33 PM
Dr. Dave 4u Dr. Dave 4u is offline
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Default The Challenge of Catasetums..

I love the challenge of growing something exotic in my limited conditions. I also am in love with weird exotic plants so the Catasetum challenge appeals to me.

I had bought some beautiful Vandas from Hawaii and they bloomed beautifully for me. they seemed to be getting enough summer light with my limited eastern am sun. I also soaked the roots daily and they seemed happy. But as the fall came, the suns intensity waned they slowly died off...

I'm hoping with the dormant cycle the catasetum might just be better suited to my limited conditions and I'm certainly willing to try it!
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  #19  
Old 02-28-2021, 02:41 PM
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DD ----- for the vanda ----- the growing temperature will be a factor too. If it gets quite chilly/cold there ----- then it would be necessary to provide some heat to compensate.

Very nice vanda flower photos that you uploaded.
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  #20  
Old 02-28-2021, 02:48 PM
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There are smaller Vanda hybrids that are easier to manage in a house. They really do need to be quite warm, and prefer to be humid, all year.
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