|
Basic Types: Phalaenopsis, Paphiopedilum, Cattleya, Oncidium, Dendrobium
Temperature:
Warm…80-90f days, 65-70f nights
Intermediate…70-80f days, 55-65f nights
Cool…60-70f days, 50-55f nights
Most of the basic types of orchids can be grown successfully in the home environment. Microclimates can be created or found naturally in the home for those that want to try more difficult plants. i.e.: cooler areas next to some windows/basements or warmer areas over radiators or in sunrooms etc.
Light
Any window but a north facing one will do for most orchids. A south facing window may need some shading (sheer curtains/blinds) as direct sunlight will burn. Some morning/late afternoon sun is beneficial. Dark green leaves is an indicator of not enough light. Leaves should be light green in colour.
Fluorescent light is a good supplemental light source. Tubes (banks or 2 or 4) or compact fluorescents are okay
HID lights are a good quality light source. They come in High Pressure Sodium and Metal Halide. Costly to run.
Watering & Fertilizer
Good quality tap water or rain water is best. R/O is also a good choice. Fertilizer such as 20/20/20 should be used at ¼ strength every second watering. Pots should be flushed THOROUGHLY every other watering to flush out excess fertilizer salts. A buildup of salts will destroy root growth on plants and eventually the plant itself. When the plant is in dormancy it should receive less water and no fertilizer.
Humidity
If possible humidity should be 40-60%. Placing pots on a pebble tray or having a small humidifier is beneficial. Placing pots close together can also help raise humidity at plant level. Plants can be misted but must be dry my night. Water and cooler temps (night) can cause spotting and/or rot. Any water that gets into the crown of Phalaenopsis/ Paphiopedilum and into tender new growths should be dried out to prevent rot.
Repotting
CLAY….porous so medium dries faster. Good for a top heavy plant. Can retain salts if not flushed properly
PLASTIC…medium dries slower. Good in a low humidity environment. Can be placed in a clay pot for top heavy plants.
BASKETS & MOUNTS….good for rambling growth plants or those that require quick drying. Not practical in a home environment because of lower humidity. Better in a greenhouse.
Sphagnum
Bark
Coconut husk
Perlite
Can be used alone or in a mix. Medium should be soaked for 24 hours before use. Styrofoam peanuts, rocks, gravel can be used in the bottom to improve drainage. Plants should be repotted every 1-2 years or whenever mix breaks down. Repotting is best done while roots and plant are in active growth. The pot size should be determined by the roots and not the size of the plant. Orchids in general like to be tight in the pot. Allow for only 1’2 years of new growth.
Labels
Be sure to keep any labels that your plant comes with. This contains the type, name and/or breeding of your plant and will be useful in the future should you have questions or want to show your plant.
Other useful stuff
To keep your plant clean and healthy check it periodically for insects etc. Leaves can be kept shiny by wiping with milk or lemon juice. Remove (carefully) any dead sheathing…it provides a place for critters to hide. Insects can be controlled with alcohol or insecticidal soap. Flower spikes should be staked on plants with a long inflorescence. (bamboo stake and twist tie or hairclip)
Orchid shows and meetings are a great place to buy new plants and meet new people. There will be a lot of knowledgeable growers to help with any questions you have. Buy lots of orchid culture books…they are an invaluable reference. Books can also be borrowed from a local library or your local orchid society will have a library. Still another good place to look for orchid information is the internet. There you will find many sites dedicated to the care and culture of orchids.
All in all orchids are not hard to grow and enjoy. In fact they can be downright addictive. Just ask anyone who has grown them for awhile. Now go on out and start collecting….and have FUN!
|
Forums